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a 1-pound eggplant, trimmed and cut into strips, each about 3 by 3/4 by 3/4
inches
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup all-purpose flour for dredging
vegetable oil for deep-frying
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar for dipping

In a bowl toss eggplant with salt. Cover eggplant directly with a plate and weight with a 1-pound can. Let eggplant stand 1 hour, or until it gives off most of its liquid. Rinse eggplant and drain well. Pat eggplant very dry with paper towels and in a bowl dredge in flour, shaking off excess.

In a 4- to 5-quart heavy saucepan heat 1 inch oil to 375°F. on a deep-fat thermometer and fry eggplant in 3 or 4 batches, stirring gently, until golden brown. Transfer eggplant with slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

Serve eggplant hot with sugar for dipping.

A few years back, 1 renewed my romance with Galatoire's restaurant. The reacquaintance was arranged by my friend Kerry Moody, who is one of New Orleans's black Creoles. A frequent visitor to the restaurant, he led me through the menu and introduced me to such off-the-menu delights as fried eggplant lightly dusted with confectioners' sugar. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

I've returned to Galatoire's many times since. Now when I arrive at the restaurant, I feel like a regular when my waiter, Imre, remembers me after any length of absence and brings the eggplant to the table unasked.

The combination of eggplant and sugar sounds strange, but the dish is delicious, a perfect beginning to a Creole feast and a subtle reminder of the African traditions of New Orleans cooking. The eggplant on which the dish is based may have originated in Africa, and the frying in deep oil is one of the major African culinary methods brought to this country by slave cooks.
 
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