Give sweet potatoes a Cajun flavour with salt, three different kinds of pepper and lavish quantities of butter. Serve half a potato per person as an accompaniment, or a whole one as a supper dish with a green salad peppered with watercress.

3 pink-skinned sweet potatoes, about 450 g/l lb each
75 g/3 oz/6 tbsp butter, sliced
black, white and cayenne peppers
Serves 3-6
Wash the potatoes and leave the skins wet. Rub salt into the skins, prick them all over with a fork and place on the middle shelf of the oven. Turn on the oven to 200C/400F and bake for about an hour, until the flesh yields and feels soft when pressed.
The potatoes can either be served in halves or whole. For halves, split each one length ways and make close crisscross cuts in the flesh of each half Then spread with slices of butter, and work the butter and seasonings roughly into the cuts with a knife point.
Alternatively, make an incision along the length of each potato if they are to be served whole. Open them slightly and put in butter slices along the length, seasoning with the peppers and a pinch of salt.

Sweet potatoes cook more quickly than ordinary ones, and there is no need to preheat the oven.