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VANILLA BUTTER
1½ oz (45 g) clarified butter
3 plump moist vanilla pods
SYRUP
6 oz (170 g) sugar
6 fi oz (175 ml) warm water
1 ripe fresh pineapple
1½ oz (45 g) unsalted butter
2 to 3 tablespoons best-quality cider vinegar
3 tablespoons dark rum
1 recipe coconut ice cream
1. Prepare the vanilla butter: flatten the vanilla pods and cut them in half lengthwise. With a small spoon, scrape out the seeds and place them in a small bowl. (The pods may be used to prepare vanilla sugar, page 303.) With a fork, mash the seeds with the butter. With a pastry scraper, press the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside.
2. Prepare the sugar syrup: combine the sugar and 6 fi oz (175 ml) warm water in a large saucepan (the syrup will boil over in a small pan). Let the mixture sit for 10 minutes, to help the sugar dissolve. Place the pan over a low heat and stir to dissolve thoroughly. Dip a pastry brush in warm water and brush down any grains of sugar that have collected along the sides of the pan. When the sugar has dissolved completely (the liquid will be clear), increase the heat to high and bring to a rolling boil. Boil the syrup for 6 minutes, or until a sugar thermometer immersed in the centre of the syrup reads 2150F/1020C. Pour into a small bowl and set aside to cool.
3. Prepare the pineapple: cut off both ends, saving several interior leaves for decoration. With a large sharp knife, carefully and evenly cut away the rind. Slice the pineapple horizontally into 12 equal slices. With a knife or a round pastry cutter, remove the tough inner core from each slice and discard.
4. In a large heavy-bottomed pan, heat the clarified butter over a high heat until it begins to smoke. Add a single layer of pineapple slices and cook until well browned, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. (You will have to do this in several batches.) Transfer the cooked pineapple slices to a plate.
5. Discard the butter in the pan. Return the pineapple to the pan, in layers if necessary, and add 2 tablespoons of the vinegar to deglaze. Add the rum and the syrup, and cook over a moderate heat, turning occasionally, for 10 minutes.
6. With a spatula or slotted spoon, transfer the pineapple slices to another pan. Remove the pan containing the sauce from the heat and stir in the vanilla butter, swirling the pan until the butter has melted. Taste the sauce and add, to taste, up to 1 tablespoon vinegar.
7. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve over the pineapple in the second pan. (The recipe may be prepared to this point several hours in advance. Cover and set aside at room temperature.) Reheat lightly, but do not boil, or the butter will separate from the sauce.
8. To serve: arrange 2 slices of pineapple on each warmed dessert plate. Spoon the sauce around and on top of the pineapple. Place a scoop of coconut ice cream in the centre, decorate with a small trimmed pineapple leaf and serve immediately.
WINE SUGGESTION:
A Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, with its aroma of exotic fruits.
Hot and cold, sweet and acid, this stunningly simple dish has all the elements of a winning winter dessert: it warms your heart, makes your lips pucker and transports you to a sunny tropical climate. I love the complex blending of flavours, including the sweetness of pineapple, the sharpness of vinegar, a lightly heady touch of rum and the rich, fragrant blend of butter and vanilla. Top if off with a dollop of coconut ice cream and you're at the threshold of gastronomic heaven. This dessert will mellow with 'age', so make it several hours ahead and then reheat at serving time. (At Jamin, the dessert is served with a single slice of pineapple. At home, feel free to serve 2 or more.)
1½ oz (45 g) clarified butter
3 plump moist vanilla pods
SYRUP
6 oz (170 g) sugar
6 fi oz (175 ml) warm water
1 ripe fresh pineapple
1½ oz (45 g) unsalted butter
2 to 3 tablespoons best-quality cider vinegar
3 tablespoons dark rum
1 recipe coconut ice cream
1. Prepare the vanilla butter: flatten the vanilla pods and cut them in half lengthwise. With a small spoon, scrape out the seeds and place them in a small bowl. (The pods may be used to prepare vanilla sugar, page 303.) With a fork, mash the seeds with the butter. With a pastry scraper, press the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside.
2. Prepare the sugar syrup: combine the sugar and 6 fi oz (175 ml) warm water in a large saucepan (the syrup will boil over in a small pan). Let the mixture sit for 10 minutes, to help the sugar dissolve. Place the pan over a low heat and stir to dissolve thoroughly. Dip a pastry brush in warm water and brush down any grains of sugar that have collected along the sides of the pan. When the sugar has dissolved completely (the liquid will be clear), increase the heat to high and bring to a rolling boil. Boil the syrup for 6 minutes, or until a sugar thermometer immersed in the centre of the syrup reads 2150F/1020C. Pour into a small bowl and set aside to cool.
3. Prepare the pineapple: cut off both ends, saving several interior leaves for decoration. With a large sharp knife, carefully and evenly cut away the rind. Slice the pineapple horizontally into 12 equal slices. With a knife or a round pastry cutter, remove the tough inner core from each slice and discard.
4. In a large heavy-bottomed pan, heat the clarified butter over a high heat until it begins to smoke. Add a single layer of pineapple slices and cook until well browned, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. (You will have to do this in several batches.) Transfer the cooked pineapple slices to a plate.
5. Discard the butter in the pan. Return the pineapple to the pan, in layers if necessary, and add 2 tablespoons of the vinegar to deglaze. Add the rum and the syrup, and cook over a moderate heat, turning occasionally, for 10 minutes.
6. With a spatula or slotted spoon, transfer the pineapple slices to another pan. Remove the pan containing the sauce from the heat and stir in the vanilla butter, swirling the pan until the butter has melted. Taste the sauce and add, to taste, up to 1 tablespoon vinegar.
7. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve over the pineapple in the second pan. (The recipe may be prepared to this point several hours in advance. Cover and set aside at room temperature.) Reheat lightly, but do not boil, or the butter will separate from the sauce.
8. To serve: arrange 2 slices of pineapple on each warmed dessert plate. Spoon the sauce around and on top of the pineapple. Place a scoop of coconut ice cream in the centre, decorate with a small trimmed pineapple leaf and serve immediately.
WINE SUGGESTION:
A Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, with its aroma of exotic fruits.
Hot and cold, sweet and acid, this stunningly simple dish has all the elements of a winning winter dessert: it warms your heart, makes your lips pucker and transports you to a sunny tropical climate. I love the complex blending of flavours, including the sweetness of pineapple, the sharpness of vinegar, a lightly heady touch of rum and the rich, fragrant blend of butter and vanilla. Top if off with a dollop of coconut ice cream and you're at the threshold of gastronomic heaven. This dessert will mellow with 'age', so make it several hours ahead and then reheat at serving time. (At Jamin, the dessert is served with a single slice of pineapple. At home, feel free to serve 2 or more.)
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